Ice Cream Fruit

∙ Make the base without milk.

∙ In a blender, purée 1 pound berries, 3 tablespoons sugar, ½ teaspoon lemon juice or balsamic vinegar and a pinch of salt.

∙ Taste; add more sugar and/or lemon or vinegar if necessary.

∙ Purée should be on the sweet side, with some underlying tartness.

∙ Stir into base before chilling.

∙ Strain before churning if using raspberries.

∙ Pit and dice 3 pounds peaches or apricots (no need to peel them).

∙ In a saucepan over medium heat, gently simmer fruit with ½ cup sugar until fruit is tender, about 10 minutes.

∙ Purée in a food processor or blender.

∙ Make the base without milk.

∙ Stir ½ cup buttermilk and the fruit purée into warm, strained base.

∙ Add a few drops of almond extract if desired.

∙ Chill.

∙ In a saucepan over medium heat, simmer 6 cups pitted cherries (from 2 pounds) with ⅓ cup sugar until cherries are very soft, about 10 minutes.

∙ Purée in a food processor or blender.

∙ Make the base without milk. Stir ½ cup buttermilk and the cherry purée into warm, strained base.

∙ Add a few drops of kirsch if desired.

∙ Chill.

∙ In a blender, purée 4 very ripe medium bananas, 2 tablespoons sugar, 1 teaspoon lemon juice and a pinch of salt until smooth.

∙ Make the base without milk.

∙ Stir ½ cup buttermilk and the fruit purée into warm, strained base.

∙ Add a few drops of vanilla extract if desired.

∙ Chill.